Fil Coupé: What is it?

written by Melissa Wolck

Fil Coupé, pronounced FILL-COO-PAY, literally means "cut threads" in French. This weaving technique produces a delicate, yet tactile fringe effect on the surface of the fabric. Let me show you what I mean. 

The image above provides a wonderful example of the surface texture of a fil coupé fabric. Though it resembles some sort of embroidery, it is actually a jacquard weave, meaning the pattern is woven into the ground cloth. On the backside of the fabric, extra weft yarns are floated between designs. It is basically woven upside down. Take a look at the example in the image below.

Once the fabric is woven, the float yarns are clipped, and the excess is discarded. But how do they get the little fringes to stick up on the face of the cloth? Well, a vacuum of course! The yarns are suctioned with a vacuum-like machine to bring the clipped yarns from the back to the face of the fabric. The result is a gorgeous fringe effect.

Here are a couple more of the fil coupé fabrics that we have recently added to our collection. 

B9285 Unicorn (coming April 2018) & B8140 Cashmere

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